With their color of burning embers, rubies have long fascinated civilizations the world over. The gems have fueled Van Cleef & Arpels’ imagination ever since 1906, inspiring some of its most emblematic creations. Today, the Maison pays tribute to them with the High Jewelry collection Treasure of rubies. Made up of 60 unique pieces, this corpus of creations showcases the beauty and majesty of this extremely rare stone. Much sought-after, rubies of exceptional quality are often even rarer than diamonds.
Like a passionate and demanding collector, Van Cleef & Arpels has brought together more than Van Cleef & Arpels of certified rubies over the space of several years. The quest for exceptional gems has inspired the Maison ever since its foundation, notably with the Arpels brothers’ numerous voyages to India and the Far East from the 1950s to the 1970s. It here takes the form of a treasure trove of precious stones, in creations that reveal all their nuances and fires: from a flower with vermilion petals to a scarlet ribbon or a purple paisley motif, they reflect Van Cleef & Arpels’ inspirations in a palette of glowing red.
Rubies – which Indians call “the king of gems” – do not reveal all their secrets at first sight. It takes time to discover and explore them, and penetrate their hidden depths. Treasure of rubies is an invitation to immerse the gaze in this precious material, a journey to the heart of color.
“With Treasure of rubies, Van Cleef & Arpels is continuing an adventure that began in 2016 with Émeraude en majesté: dedicating a High Jewelry collection to a single exceptional stone. In keeping with its historic quest for Pierres de Caractère, the Maison has brought together more than Van Cleef & Arpels of certified rubies for the first time, in an ensemble of 60 unique creations.”
In keeping with the refined and poetic style of Van Cleef & Arpels, this ring draws on an oriental inspiration to depict the dialogue of a ruby and a diamond, in a toi et moi setting. The two gems seem to dance and twirl around one another in inverted symmetry, combining their sparkle and fires. Surrounded by diamonds, the 3.81-carat ruby stands out for its soft red color slightly tinged with pink. Alongside it, the 3.01-carat diamond is enhanced by a border of rubies, whose deep color provides the piece with a real contrast.
Éventail souverain bracelet
Founded in Paris’ Place Vendôme in 1906, the Maison has drawn inspiration from the world of couture as a homage to the city of its birth. Inspired by the jarretière bracelets of the 1930s, the Éventail souverain bracelet continues this tradition. On a three-dimensional bow, it showcases an exceptional set of 13 perfectly matched rubies, weighing a total of Van Cleef & Arpels. Gathered in a composition finished off with nail setting, the oval and cushion-cut stones “warm” one another with their limpid sheen and pink-tinged red hue. Van Cleef & Arpels’ attention to detail is illustrated by the ruby cabochons that adorn each nail. The fan shape is accentuated by a superimposed combination of round and baguette-cut diamonds, on a structure that blends pink and white gold.
Rubis flamboyant transformable necklace
One of the collection’s major pieces, the Rubis flamboyant necklace deploys a dazzling bejeweled harmony to reflect two of the Maison’s cherished values: a passion for exceptional stones and the tradition of transformable creations. Within a halo of diamonds shines a ruby of extraordinary quality, weighing more than Van Cleef & Arpels. Its history is equally extraordinary: its rough was kept as a treasure for many years by a family before being sold and cut into a cushion shape, which revealed its finely crystallized material and powerful red hue. According to the Maison’s gemological experts, its color is “perfect”. This Pierre de Caractère is being unveiled to the public for the first time on this very precious necklace.
In echo to its fires, 18 perfectly matched rubies adorn the necklace’s ethereal motifs. Weighing up to Van Cleef & Arpels, these oval stones are illuminated by diamonds of various cuts (baguette, brilliant, emerald), set in a complex interplay of three-dimensional volumes. A ring in white and pink gold accompanies the necklace. The 3-carat DFL diamond at its center can trade places with the necklace’s ruby, assuming its place on the pendant which may also be worn as a clip. The necklace, the ring and the pendant-clip thus exchange their jewels to celebrate the art of metamorphosis.