“In many ways I put the idea of the man, the individual, in front of the brand: an idea of L’Homme Dior.” explains the Creative Director of Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche.
There is an idea of the formality of Savile Row meeting Monsieur Dior’s archive in the collection; at the same time the traditional high end meets the high end of the street.
The figure of Christian Dior himself looms large over the latest Dior Homme Winter collection. Monsieur Dior’s personal motifs and good luck charms – such as Lily of the Valley, the star, the heart and the coin – become leitmotifs for the entire collection.
Found in a multiplicity of embroideries, prints, patterns and knits as well as masculine jewellery such as tie pins and more unconventional white metal brooches, they weave their way throughout the entire offering representing, luck, extravagance and playfulness.
An interest in Monsieur Dior’s archive both masculine (in terms of fabric and ties) and feminine (embroideries from the Haute Couture) are here transposed and recontextualised.
Traditional tie polka dots take over entire looks, embroidered over everything including accessories in the form of leather bags and shoes, transforming the conventional into the unconventional.
An abstract rose embroidery, found in the Dior Haute Couture archive, is combined with another, personal symbol of Monsieur Dior in the form of the pinstripe suit, or as a large isolated motif on an over-sized pinstripe overcoat, contrasted with denim and training shoes.
It is a meeting of these two mind-sets that is to be found central to the Winter collection.
The contemporary classics of menswear are equally derived from a utilitarian and military heritage as they are from formal tailoring – and here beautifully realised denims and Japanese nylon flight jackets and parkas hold equal sway with traditional wool overcoats.
“I wanted it all to be about the individual again, a feeling of uniqueness and what luxury is really about."" says Kris Van Assche of the collection.