The hit TV series Stranger things has taken us straight back to the 1980s, with vintage walkie-talkies and iconic looks of the time.
It must mean something if even fashion, which never takes a holiday, comes back this coming season with an updated version of the most cult styles which identify that incredible decade, which was never banal and always packed with new ideas.
The Liu Jo Black Label Autumn-Winter 2018 collection is very Eighties trendy.
Prominent constructed shoulders are certainly the most extreme detail on coats and outerwear. Nothing is minimal: certainly not the masculine fit, tailored suits that wink an eye at the power dressing we saw at the cinema at that time, in a famous film with Melanie Griffith and Sigourney Weaver. And the references go on, with ruffles, lurex, stud and rhinestone decorations, chains and metal fastenings made so familiar by the popstar who became Madonna.
Coats and suits are the absolute stars of the collection. A proposal covering several moods: Micrographic Tailoring, Poetic Rock style and the most British outfits inspired by the Clash song London Calling, because the great costume revolution began right there in the Kings Road.
It’s a question of much and many. Of the heritage of a thrilling historical moment which will never come back. But, be careful, this is not a reinterpretation. Nor a nostalgic provocation. It is rather the contemporary interpretation of a clearly metropolitan flavour. Volumes are wide, for example, but never oversize for trousers and dresses.
The body is not hidden, far from it: it is enhanced by waistcoats and Spencer jackets as up to date as ever, worn with a miniskirt or a pair of cropped trousers. The coats are cut at the waist. The blouses are flowing, in mixed silk and georgette and the mohair sweaters are enriched with decorations, embroidery, sequins and pearls in full Liu Jo style.
Coats are fastened with metal hooks inspired by firemen’s uniforms. While the evergreen faux furs come in the brightest shades.
Lines are clean and precise, in any case. And the colours return to that need to dare so dear to that historical moment, and perhaps even today. Alongside the White, Black, Night Blue Sky and Botanic Garden come arrogant Pink and Carassius Red. And of course, as the cold hits harder darker shades make their stand, like Night Blue Sky.
Attention to fabrics also creates explosive colour combinations in the pink + black hound’s tooth cheque, in the cashmere blend of Jacquard sweaters and reversible cardigans in floral patterns reflecting the ever-strong desire for lightness.
And the evergreen garment revisited? Fuseaux pants with foot straps. We thought they had been forgotten in the back of the wardrobe, bartered for leggings. But no. Never say never. A must reinterpreted, outlining hyper-feminine bodies. With certainty.