Foto: Jaeger-LeCoultre ©

High Jewellery and Art Watches Enamel, mother-of-pearl, diamonds,

aventurine and feathers lend a dazzling glow to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmak

Sublimating mechanics. Exalting horological know-how. Arousing emotions and expectations. Desire and fascination. Such are the substantial daily challenges undertaken by the artisans of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. All experts in their respective arts, they unite their talents in composing the most remarkable symphonies. Jewellers, enamellers, guilloché specialists, engravers and watchmakers have the gift of creating a subtle alchemist’s blend of techniques and aesthetics, form and substance, gear wheels and decorative motifs, infusing each watch with soul and passion. Like an open book revealing the mysteries of artistry, the new models introduced in 2011 tell the magical tale of an encounter between human beings, beauty and time – thus engraving their story in eternity. A sparkling parade of natural mother-of-pearl, aventurine, diamonds, enamel and feathers providing a graceful and sophisticated escort for the tourbillons, perpetual calendars, minute repeaters and day/night indications: the new Master Lady collection offers a refined reading of time expressed in the feminine mode. The enamelled pieces are a modern interpretation of an age-old art imbued with the nobility of hand craftsmanship and meticulous care pushed to extremes. The men’s watches treat the horological complications of the Manufacture to a new execution reflecting the infinitely precious nature of time. Each of these new models pays a glowing tribute to these manufacturing crafts that have found their way through time and continue to enrich the Jaeger-LeCoultre in creative new ways.

Master Lady Collection : the eternal feminine
A soft silhouette, sensual curves, innate elegance. In the subtle game of seduction, the new Master Lady collection appears arrayed in its finest adornments. Its timeless shape tames the passing hours in an endlessly dancing circle. The size of the case clothed in steel, pink gold or white gold is adjusted to fit the daintiest wrists. A line of brilliant-cut diamonds highlights its profile flowing through to the lugs. The latter appear in an eminently slender new aesthetic that further accentuates the femininity of this model. An inverted diamond punctuates the crown like an offering placed on the altar of time. The gem-set bezel lights up a refined face swept over by generous bevelled hands. While the chapter ring features rounded contemporary numerals, the dial is adorned – depending on the version – with a central circular guilloché motif, or a marquetry-work pattern of mother-of-pearl, diamonds or feathers. Beneath the grace and purity radiating from these models, fitted with a satin strap or a gem-set gold bracelet, beats a mechanical automatic heart crafted in harmony with the finest Haute Horlogerie traditions.
The Master Lady Night & Day dedicates its 29 mm diameter to a day/night indication at 6 o’clock, reliably driven by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 867A. Its shimmering mother-of-pearl dial is illuminated by diamonds, a refined touch that highlights the watchmaking functions. Equipped with the famous Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 978, the Master Lady Tourbillon,
Master Lady Tourbillon Wild and Master Lady Tourbillon Enamel are vivid proof that technical sophistication can also be womanly. One encircles its tourbillon with a diamond ring setting the seal on the union of beauty and femininity. The other surrounds the horological complication with an incredible fan-shaped array of diamonds, mother-of-pearl, aventurine and genuine feathers unfurling across the dial in a fascinating Art Deco spirit. The third invites the tourbillon carriage into a plant-life kingdom where nature reigns supreme in all its radiant vibrancy.

Enamelled watches: a time-honoured art dedicated to fine watchmaking
Destined to meet and mingle within the workshops of the Manufacture, fine watchmaking and the art of miniature enamel painting share the same love of detail, the same rigorous standards, the same brilliantly skilled execution stemming from patient craftsmanship. Guided by the hand, the eye and the heart, watchmakers and enamellers alike devote meticulous care to creating miniaturised masterpieces. Of all the known techniques in this field, miniature enamel painting is probably the most accomplished form of this age-old art to which the new models released in 2011 pay vibrant tribute. They also showcase an enamelling process that goes back to the Renaissance, meaning translucent enamels combined with guilloché work to achieve a striking depth effect. These techniques are among the most precious of all the pictorial arts. No longer officially taught in art schools, they are exacting disciplines mastered by an exclusive circle of artisans perpetuating their know-how from one generation to the next.
The Master Minute Repeater provides a stunning setting for the crystal-clear tones of the gongs sounding the hours, quarters and minutes. This timepiece marrying the pictorial artistry of a-miniature enamel painted dial with the symphonic splendour of one of the greatest horological complications is a concentrated blend of expertise. Miniature enamel painting is highly prized by collectors thanks to its great artistic and historical value. The making of the enamelled dial of the Master Minute Repeater calls for around a hundred hours of intense concentration and a large number of delicate and essential operations. The enameller must also display absolute precision in order to guarantee the perfect running of the watch mechanism and not to exceed the infinitely small tolerances of around 2/10ths of a millimetre. Before starting the painting as such, he prepares the white or translucent enamel and covers the other side of the dial plate with a layer of enamel backing intended to prevent any distortion of the metal during firing. He then begins the decorative work by using an extremely fine brush to apply successive layers of colours that are fired in the oven one after another. This testimony to the talent of the enamel artisans would not be complete without a demonstration of the horological mastery embodied in Jaeger- LeCoultre Calibre 947. Cleverly combining form and substance, the Master Minute Repeater reveals the gongs of its minute repeater mechanism through an aperture at 4 o’clock.
In its gem-set version, the Master Grand Tourbillon Enamel plays with light and shade to set the sophisticated complication off to its best advantage. The white gold case featuring hand-engraved sides provides a stunning showcase for one of the finest gems from the Manufacture and for one of the most exceptional ornamental techniques. Surrounded by the glow of a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds, two cranes perch delicately on the engraved midnight blue dial. Crafted using the translucent guilloché enamelling technique, this model enhances the exquisite refinement of its miniature motif with an incredible depth effect. Before applying the successive layers of transparent enamel, the artisan performs meticulous hand-guilloché work on the metal base plate. He then adds a layer of white enamel known as grisaille on the part to be decorated. After firing the piece in the over, the enameller works with blanc de Limoges, using a needle or a fine brush to apply various layers and densities in order to create grey and white effects that he can then combine with colour oxides. Like a trompe l’oeil painting, the engraved translucent enamel highlights every detail of the motif with infinite precision. Within a relief effect accentuated by the light playing across the outlines of the designs, a range of miniature elements such as the plumage of the birds, the curve of their neck and the refinement of the guilloché work, converge to literally give life to the watch. A life that beats to the cadence of the mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 978,

Celestial Collection : the celestial standard-bearers of the watchmaking art cultivated by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Three models epitomising the know-how of Jaeger-LeCoultre succumb to the charms of precious stones. Uniting the talent of its jewellers and watchmakers, the celestial collection treats the Grande Complication models from the Manufacture to a new and infinitely precious execution.
Featuring a platinum case majestically crowned with baguette-cut diamonds, the Master Gyrotourbillon 1 appears enhanced by the radiance of a dial adorned using the rock setting technique, with baguette-cut diamonds carefully arranged to depict the vault of the Sistine Chapel. The poetic “canopy of heaven” below is majestically represented by an aventurine starry sky forming an intensely beautiful jewel case studded with gold specks and surrounding the gravitational magic of the gyrotourbillon. Born from the imagination of the gemsetters of the Manufacture, rock setting reveals the fire of the baguette-cut diamonds by entirely concealing the matter holding them in place. The resulting mystery is a secret jealously kept by the artisans at Jaeger-LeCoultre, and this magnificent stage-setting is perfectly matched by the complexity of the manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 177. Incorporating three complications elegantly combining the noblest traditions with avantgarde technology – a minute repeater, a celestial flying tourbillon and a sidereal zodiac calendar – the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication uses precious stones to trace the contours of its mechanism. Splendid baguette-cut diamonds invade the white gold case, while subtly graded shades of blue sapphires on the dial form the sky chart of the Northern hemisphere. A rotating ring also adorned with diamonds and sapphires further enhances the magnificent overall effect. Such a vision naturally called for the splendour of Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 945, comprising 527 parts hand-assembled and adjusted by a single watchmaker, in order to ensure the perfection of its accurate running. Equipped with Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 978, an automatic tourbillon movement featuring a titanium carriage and a high-inertia balance, the Master Grand Tourbillon expresses its sophistication through two dazzling versions: one in pink gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and the other in white gold paved with baguette-cut diamonds. Both opt for the intensity of aventurine as a backdrop for this impressive horological feat. The marquetryworked stone creates an iridescent and rigorously geometric effect dotted with tiny gold inclusions that shimmer in the light. Backstage, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibres 978 automatic tourbillon movement vibrates with appropriate regularity, in step with the gentle to-and-fro motion of the finely crafted gold oscillating weight.


Foto: Jaeger-LeCoultre ©

Reportage - Perberichten - Luxe en Prestige - Internationale kronieken - PrestigeGuide online inzet << Vorige pagina