The SONIA RYKIEL Spring-Summer 2013 collection designed by April Crichton is inspired by Kate Bush, a romantic, bohemian and modern heroine who affirms her individuality and eccentricity with as much style as she does spirit. Her freshness is expressed through tender, poetic tones; pastels dominated by Cadillac green or light pink.
Aware of her femininity, she doesn’t hesitate to reveal her skin by playing with fabrics and textures. Cotton knits with floating fibres here on the v-shaped décolleté or there on the leg, allow the body to express itself effortlessly. A sweater teamed with a skirt worn above the knee or a featherweight poncho are thrown on with ease, caressing the body with their softness. Deconstructed tops in cotton and linen wool with bows in the front uncover the waist. Worn with hip hugging pants, they define an allure that is at once both relaxed and sophisticated. The silhouette also plays on the opposition between loose, oversized and Japanese style shapes, like a quilted Cadillac coloured cotton sweater worn simply over a cotton and silk shirt whose collar is studded with stones. References to a masculine wardrobe also crop up here and there. A tie embroidered on a canvas shirt dress for a trompe l’oeil effect, a racer back jumpsuit, a long embroidered coat, a parka in woollen guipure or even redingote inspired jackets add character, strength and tension to the silhouette. Dresses with graphic straps, embroidered with sequins, ever present, are fluid, often long and constructed architecturally around the body. Block colours, abstract flower prints and monochrome are nonchalantly placed on the body. Indispensable stripes are combined in a patchwork of colours and fabrics. Randomly placed they decorate the body with a naïve quality, sometimes soft, sometimes electric, but always luminous, enhanced by lurex strands. Come evening, black is obligatory. A deconstructed, asymmetric, smoking style jacket with masculine shoulders is worn open over a duchess satin flesh coloured bustier top and matched with ample and fluid men’s pants.
The silhouette is enriched with metallic bracelets and cuffs, worn like sculptures. Flat boots, open in the back, with interlaced straps bring a relaxed but chic 60’s touch. Sandals with square heels produce height. This season, two new handbag lines make their debut alongside a clutch. The Grenelle line, essential and modern, offers bags whose “three locks” clasp is as unexpected as it is mysterious. The Mazarine line plays on contrasts by confronting the softness of a polished patent leather with the richness of a jewelled chain strap.